August 4, 2000 11:37 Edinburgh to Glasgow train: Shortly before we leave the station, a couple of dozen Boy Scouts rush in, squeeze their backpacks into the overhead luggage racks, & fill all of the empty seats. They’re speaking in Gaelic. A group of scouts score the two pairs of seats with the table & do what any self-respecting Gaelic-speaking youths would do after a week of hoofing through the heather – they whip out a deck of cards & play Pokémon.